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 Shoot in the daytime using available sunlight as your sole light source.
The easiest way to take realistic, natural-looking pictures of small objects is to shoot them in sunlight. Avoid using electronic flash or artificial room lighting if possible.
Control the brightness level to take beautiful pictures of collectibles.
To control this critical variable, shoot a separate series test images at different exposures and visually compare the results to arrive at the best possible setting.
Set Aperture Priority AE to soften the foreground or background.
Set Aperture Priority AE mode and choose a wide aperture (a small f/number) to soften the foreground or background and focus the viewer's attention on the main subject. Use f/2.8 as your standard aperture and use a wider one (such as f/2) to soften the background or foreground even more. A softer background or foreground can also be achieved by increasing the distance between your main subject and the foreground or background, and by shooting from a lower angle rather than from above.
Pick the "main player" and the "bit players" when shooting a group.
Allocate major or supporting roles to respective objects in a group so your main subject stands out. Use a tripod to free up your left hand for arranging the bit players within the frame. Use Live View, move or zoom in on the main subject, and focus manually.Practically everyone feels a sense of inner contentment and joy as they gaze upon the unique and beautiful things that comprise their prized collection of small objects. Taking first-rate pictures of the items in your collection is a great way to deepen that delight, document your collection, and make it easier to share with friends and family-all while enjoying photography! It's also quite easy if you follow a few simple hints and tips. Basically, you can use the same techniques employed in Session #2, "Capturing the elegance of flower arrangements," so please review it beforehand.
![LESSON[1] How to use available window light effectively](images/lesson1.gif){kind=small} The easiest way to take good indoor pictures of small objects is to make effective use of the available sunlight streaming through the window. You can also experiment by positioning the objects closer, farther away or at different angles to the window to soften the light or create interesting effects that capture the interplay of light and shadow. Another good way to soften the light is to use window curtains as a diffusion device. Make sure to shoot test images of all these variations to arrive at those you like best. I took Picture A by selecting an interesting cookie cutter as the main subject. The rolling pin and the tray are from a toy cooking set for kids. I took this picture by looking down on the small objects from a high angle to create a sharp image of all the items needed to make a cookie. Small household articles often make great subjects. Picture B was taken by selecting one of the cookie cutters to be the main subject and shooting it from a lower camera angle. The resulting image looks a lot more natural because the camera angle is much closer to that of a typical observer's eye. Note also that this perspective also makes it easier to achieve softer background effects because the distance between the background and the main subject is greater. You can express your individuality by capturing images at different apertures in Aperture Priority mode to vary the out-of-focus background effects, then assessing the results. Picture C was taken with the camera nearly straight on at eye level. I took this shot to illustrate the best technique for taking pictures of small objects on a chest or a shelf. I arranged the miniature camera and figurines at the same working (lens-to-subject) distance to capture all the items in sharp focus regardless of the shooting aperture. |
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 Picture BTo create this image I first chose the main subject, then determined its ideal position within the frame by taking a number of trial shots. Next, I placed the supporting "bit players" one by one. Note: The greater the distance from the main subject, the softer the images look. Unlike Picture A, the light streamed from the left this time so I placed a reflector (not visible) just outside the right-hand side of the frame. Taken with the Canon EOS 50D and Tamron SP AF60mm F/2 Di II MACRO 1:1 (Model G005). Aperture priority AE (f/5.6, 1/15 sec), +1exposure compensation, ISO200, WB: AWB. * Click on the picture to see an enlarged image. |
Picture CTo emphasize the engaging cuteness of small objects, add some other objects of different sizes for comparison, or change the distances between objects to create open spaces within the frame. In this case, I arranged the smaller items fairly close to the main subject to create a composition that conveys a wider, more spacious feeling. Taken with the Canon EOS 50D and Tamron SP AF60mm F/2 Di II MACRO 1:1 (Model G005). Aperture priority AE (f/4, 1/8 sec), +0.5exposure compensation, ISO200, WB: AWB. * Click on the picture to see an enlarged image. |
![LESSON [2] Capture the fantastic world of tiny objects with your macro lens.](images/lesson2.gif){kind=small}
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Picture D is an image of a glass whale measuring about 1.5 cm (around 0.6 inches) in length. To take pictures like this you really need a macro lens. Before I took this shot I made a mental picture of a whale swimming, then tried to get that feeling into the picture. Precise focusing is essential when the main subject is so tiny. That's why I focused on the whale's eyes in MF (manual focus) mode. I strongly suggest that you take up the challenge of macro photography. There's nothing quite like the compelling beauty of small objects when they're seen up close in your camera's viewfinder!
Picture E is of a necklace. It's yet another typical example of a shot you can't take without a macro lens. Rings and pierced earrings are other good jewelry subjects for macro photography. A little ingenuity helps when placing your subjects. In this case I hung the necklace on a cut glass vessel and secured it with Scotch tape. Since the light was streaming in from the right, I placed the stone in a position where the light did not reflect off it, thereby showcasing the beautiful color of the stone. To capture the full beauty and color of small objects used as main subjects, it's vital to shoot test images at different exposure settings, then compare them to determine the optimum exposure setting, lighting effect, and color rendition for your subject. You can really feel like a stylist or a graphic designer when you arrange and photograph small objects such as jewelry accessories. You'll also feel good when you take pictures of heirlooms or gifts and include prints with your thank-you cards. |
Picture DI took this picture by placing a glass figurine of a whale figure on a shiny card case. Actually, there's another glass whale in the foreground placed in front of the main subject but it is almost completely blurred out due to the very shallow depth of field. Taken with the Canon EOS 50D and Tamron SP AF60mm F/2 Di II MACRO 1:1 (Model G005). Aperture priority AE (f/2.8, 1/15 sec), +2exposure compensation, ISO200, WB: Daylight. * Click on the picture to see an enlarged image. |
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These two pictures were taken from exactly the same camera position and at the same aperture, f/2.8. In Picture F both jelly jars are treated as main subjects of equal value. Both are placed at the same working distance so both are captured in sharp focus. In Picture G the position of the jelly jar on the left-hand side was maintained, but the jar on the right-hand side was shifted toward the rear. The main subject is now clearly the jelly jar on the left-hand side while the right-hand one is treated as the bit player. If you select one object as the bit player and place it at some distance from the main subject you can blur it slightly to further emphasize the main subject. |
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Session4